“You can do a haircut faster using
longer shears.”
Another important aspect to consider
is the grip. The three most popular types
of grips available are an opposing grip,
which is the oldest design and works best
for stylists who cut with the middle finger
and thumb; a crane grip, which is offset
to open the hand and angled to drop the
elbow position for stylists who use the
classic palm-to-palm cutting technique;
and an offset grip, which is designed for
stylists who use the ring finger to hold the
shear. The shorter thumb handle reduces
overextension of the thumb. Villa believes
that the shears should have finger holes
that accurately fit the stylists’ fingers for
comfort and accurate cutting. He offers
rings to put in the holes of his shears so
stylists with smaller hands can easily make
them smaller.
Choosing the proper edge is also
important. Shears either have a convex
edge, which is a smoother cutting
blade that’s ideal for slide-cutting, or a
beveled edge, which is the oldest blade
design and requires more force than
the convex blade. Since they are harder
to make, shears with convex edges are
generally more expensive.
It is crucial to adjust the tension before
using a new pair of shears on a client. “It’s
important to choose shears that cause the
least amount of resistance because the less
resistance there is, the more effortless the
cutting feels,” Villa says. Texturizing shears
should have more tension than regular
shears. If not, according to Karg, the
cutting blade falls over on the other blade,
which can damage the shears. It is also
important to the balance of the shears.
“The tip won’t cut right if the balance is
off,” he says.
Finally, stylists need to ask themselves
what they want the shears to do. This
will help narrow down the choices.
Karg offers stylists a piece of advice
for choosing the right pair of shears.
“The minute you hold a pair of shears,
you’ll know it’s yours,” he says. “It’s like
holding a tennis racquet. It talks to you.”
—NICOLE PALMIERI
The Presidential Cut
Since being elected into office, President Barack
Obama has provided inspiration with his charisma
and dedication to change. Obama’s closely trimmed
hair has also inspired males throughout the country
to shed their locks for a tighter, shorter cut. Ivan Zoot,
director of education and training for Andis Company
and known as the ClipperGuy, posted a five-minute
video on You Tube that demonstrates how stylists can
give their clients this popular short cut. The step-by-step demonstration is performed by Roderick Samuels from Profile Barber
Institute using Andis tools. He first used the PhatMaster to cut all the hair with
the grain, starting at the crown of the head and moving forward, then down the
sides and around the back. Next, he used the Styliner M3 Trimmer to work from
the center of the forehead around the sides and ears, creating light, not defined,
edges. Finally, he put detail on the finished cut using the ProFoil Shaver to trim
loose edges on top of the hair, polishing around the side of the face and cutting
stray hairs. “I like to call it the Presidential Cut,” Zoot says. “You could describe
it as even all over, mid-length, with soft edges. I think we may be hearing some
requests for the cut, so we thought we’d help out with the instructional video.”
To view the video, visit
youtube.com and search for Andis Tool Tips—How to Cut
President Barack Obama’s Haircut. —N.P.
CLIP ART
When it comes time to choose, which clipper makes the cut?
If you’re looking to invest in a new pair of clippers, there are some things you’ll want to
consider before you go shopping. Size, weight and power level are important to take into
account, and your decision should be based on what you need the clipper to do, how much
hair will be cut, and how many cuts per day you will be using the clipper for, according
to Ivan Zoot, director of education and training for Andis Company. You should also pay
attention to tooth width, tooth depth and blade thickness. These three characteristics
determine the closeness, precision and volume of hair that can be removed. Zoot offers this
piece of advice when deciding on the perfect clipper: “You will expect a lot from the clipper
you choose so be sure it can deliver. The tool should fit your hand well and feel right.” —N.P.
( 1)
( 3)
( 2)
( 4)
1) Andis Easy Style Clipper combines a rotary motor with five blade adjustments for flexibility (andis
.com);
2) HAI Elite Digi-Clipper features digital power, speed-control buttons and a digital display
that adjusts to three levels of speed (
hai-elite.com);
3) BaByliss PRO Forfex FX670 Titanium Hair
Clipper features a high torque motor for extreme power (
conairpro.com);
4) Oster Mojo Cordless
Clipper accommodates 10 blade sizes for versatility and precision (
osterstyle.com).
